On the stove, a pair of goosenecks stuffed with maple-scented venison breakfast sausage fried softly in a cast-iron pan, the heads still attached. Truong had inflated the skin with an air compressor, stuffed it with paste made from five-spice powder, ginger, garlic and chiles bound with some hoisin sauce, and then glazed it before leaving it to dry in the refrigerator. He is close to perfecting beaver-tail lardo, which he set out in thin slices on a charcuterie board alongside venison pastrami and a few types of sausages when we got to the Latanés’ farmhouse kitchen after our hunt.Ī Peking goose was roasting in the oven. He has since become a much better game cook. “It tasted like I burned a can of anchovies and added fish sauce,” Mr. He tried to make a wild-game version of the Vietnamese dish ca kho in which the breasts were braised in a caramelized sauce. These ducks eat fish, and their flesh can take on a funky, marine flavor. Then there was the time he tried to prepare mergansers. But getting Americans on board could be a challenge. So Wingstop, a chain known for, well, wings, is now selling chicken thighs. Now he braises venison ribs for hours to get rid of the chalky, sticky taste. Chicken wing prices are going through the roof. He roasted the ribs from his first deer, and they were terrible. They have been close friends and hunting partners ever since. Owen to join him and his father on a goose hunt. One day, the couple’s son, Cameron Latané, invited Mr. Geese migrating to and from the Ungava Peninsula in far northern Quebec like to winter over in the Latanés’ grain fields. They live on about 200 acres of farmland that has been in the Washington family for centuries. One of his suppliers was Blenheim Organic Gardens, run by Rebecca and Lawrence Latané, who is a descendant of George Washington’s family. Truong slowly started to change the menu, adding Chesapeake Bay oysters and sophisticated entrees that used vegetables from local farms. It was a French-fries-and-bison-sliders kind of place, but Mr. Truong became the executive chef at Kybecca, in Fredericksburg, a city of about 28,000 that serves both as a tourist town for history buffs and a commuter town for people working in Quantico or Arlington. Waterfowl came a few years later, after Mr. He had fought alongside Green Berets during the Vietnam War and had no interest in picking up another gun.īut to the son, hunting seemed like the next logical step - especially as his cooking career took off. Unlike many fathers in this part of Virginia, Mr. But their fishing trips together were a bright spot, and cemented Mr. As a teenager more interested in partying than school, he didn’t always get along with his father.
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